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Then head to Belgrado, a new multifaceted cafe with specialized retail areas — wine store, cheesemonger and gallery among them — and picture windows framing ocean views. Visit the boutique area for clothing from the local label Letitare and artistic cityscape illustrations from Koloreka, a three-year-old print shop headquartered across town. But pass the bar and climb the wooden stairs to enter its hidden second-story restaurant, where about a dozen tables draped in white linens fill with a well-heeled crowd conversing in an easy mix of Spanish and Basque.

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Any European Capital of Culture worthy of its designation will boast a shiny multidisciplinary cultural complex. The enormous six-level complex presents an ever-changing mix of exhibitions and events, from film screenings and photography displays to artist talks and impromptu magic shows. Preparing to eat pintxos in the Parte Vieja? To plan properly, you should also know the house specialty, particularly at old-school places that excel with a single ingredient or dish.

At Bar Paco Bueno, that specialty is gambas a la gabardina, fresh-from-the-fryer battered shrimp. But at Bar Txepetxa , you want plump boquerones vinegar-cured anchovies layered on crusty bread and topped with diced peppers and onion. Then go nouveau at Borda Berri, a younger bar striving for a menu with breadth over depth.

Regular fixtures on the chalkboard menu that rarely disappoint include crisp roasted octopus, creamy risotto and sublimely tender beef cheeks. The wide, half-mile-long promenade that backs Zurriola beach accommodates a cross-section of the city — strolling families, dripping surfers — and doubles as an open-air art gallery: Last summer brought an installation of six massive bronze sculptures by Henry Moore, but the stunning beach scenes are on display every day.

Then visit A Fuego Negro , a pintxo bar with a subversive spirit that regularly brings in D. Opened in on a quiet street in Gros, the Okako Hotel Iztueta 7; ; okakohotel.

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Flight and Hotel information provided by Google. Prices represent a snapshot of low fares and rates for weekend trips. Please upgrade your browser. See next articles. Architecture Tour, 4 p. Beer House Rules, p.